Tank Mounting

Spent yesterday fabricating the mounts for the fuel tank. As much as possible, I want to avoid the "bent metal tabs/aluminum straps from Home Depot" look. It triples the amount of time to fabricate anything, but the reality is, I'm in no rush. Today its too cold to do anything (and I mean ANYTHING) other than stay inside. The plan was to head to Killarney to fool about on the ice with the TTR, but I'd rather not subject anything mechanically (the bike) or organically (me) to -41 degrees Celsius with the wind chill. Ripping around a frozen lake likely would provide little in the way of wind protection. Man, I wish the weather would break a bit. -10 will feel balmy...



Back to the tank -- I spent some time figuring how I'd like to mount it, and came up with the design you see at left. The front is a typical centre tab with a bolt through it (a shouldered washer/sleeve with a m6 allen through it). The rear two tabs are likewise, set into 5/8 tubing that has a nut welded into it. The pics likely explain it better than I can with words. I've left each end of the 3/4" cross tube quite long, to allow for the possibility of the aluminum subframe in the Tyga kit bolting to it.





I'll trim the cross piece to whatever length is needed, regardless if I can use it as a pick-up point for the subframe. It was a good reminder for me to measure 15 times before, during, and after tack-welding. And to look at it from as many different perspectives as possible. To improve the ambient light, I usually work (regardless of temperature) with the front garage door open. I'm sure the few brave souls who were out walking yesterday wondered why I was poised on a ladder, looking down at a funny pile of steel, with one eye closed. When all was said and done, a slight tap with the rubber mallet (while the welded areas were still cherry red), and everything lines up square.
I think I am now officially at the "50% done, 90% left to go" stage. Huddled over some home-made Tim Horton's I came up with the following 2 lists:

TO DO (in no particular order)

• Install appropriate K&N filter prior to installing rear subframe (57mm boot)
• Fit rear subframe
• Front fairing mounts
• Side fairing mounts
• Finish exhaust header
• Install suitable muffler
• Finish-Weld Frame (after damaged cases arrive from Thumpertalk)
• Fit Radiator tabs and hoses
• Install appropriate Kickstand (need to call Dave in the UK for some direction here)
• Finish tank -- fill oem petcock hole and install outlet hose
• Get the manual and check all the wiring I have/establish what I need
• Find appropriate switchgear for handlebars
• Fit Dash -- OEM or aftermarket
• Fabricate gearshift mechanism
• Fit rear brake m/c and lever
• Oil tank -- needs to be designed, fabricated, and installed

TO BUY: the following parts are still required to finish

1. Front NSR250 fairing mount (UK only)
2. Muffler (aftermarket slip-on)
3. K&N filter
4. Radiator hoses
5. Fuel Cap
6. Kickstand
7. Rear Brake M/C
8. Shift Lever
9. Brake Lever
10. Pegs
11. DRZ400 steel shifter (to fabricate one that will work with street switchgear)
12. Chain
13. Oil tank
14. Oil lines and clamps (oil tank will be in different location than OEM)
15. Dash -- OEM or aftermarket
16. Battery
17. Front RS125 fender (likely UK only)
18. Fuel Tank liner (Kreem or POR-15 after it's been tested)

Right.... still a ways to go then. The time off recently has been wonderful. A ton of progress has been made. New parts are still in transit, so aside from the K&N filter, I have time to wait on some things... Back to work tomorrow! As in, my real job, not the expensive hobby you see here.