





You can see the steel upper mount (which I hope doubles as a mount for the rear licence plate, and the temporary alloy mount which is attached to the footpeg brace. It was very tedious to get the pipes symmetrical in terms of their angle, and roughly close to their orientation towards the rear of the bike.
I don't know a lot about exhaust tuning -- a motoGP tech book I bought shows pictures of how the same engine from Honda, Ducati, Yamaha, etc. all had different exhausts on the bike depending on the characteristics the engineers wanted from it. Common sense to me and Dad suggested we try to get each header pipe the same length as the other, due to the lack of the crossover pipe. Stock, the front header was 9" longer than the rear. When I was done, the difference was only 4". How will it run? I have no idea. Will it make more or less horsepower? Only a dyno could tell. As this isn't a racer, I don't care a whole lot. Definately a different look but I'm happy with the progress so far. I'm sure I will have to fabricate an exhaust guard for my right boot, and I did see a neat bike with these same exhausts shortened for a stubby look, and likely a growlier sound. Need to finish the lower bracket first.

screen installed is pretty fine in terms of filtering. Will likely have to play with the jetting to get it to run OK. Still waiting on some parts for the rear axle (Dad has them) before I put the rear swingarm on. Want to line up the sprockets installed, and that will require some spacer juggling. So no sense doing anything at this point until I have the rear hubcentric to install inside the rear swingarm.
The aforementioned exhaust was actually a Quat D I got for less than 1/2 price on ebay, new. Will require some work to fit, as the two other guys doing this conversion have run into some exhaust problems. I had some good luck with cycleboys regarding stainless steel (which is what this pipe is made out of), and all I can see needing done is a minor tweaking of the rear header pipe... I think. Have to be patient until I have the parts in front of me...

I, of course, have decided to go whole hog -- 150cc kit, performance cam, and FMF exhaust will be installed, along with the new crank, case halves (matching) bearings, cam chain, etc. etc. Some things were surprising in terms of pricing. Case halves were $200/pr, but a complete gasket and oil ring set was $100! New bearings for the bottom end also cost $100. I tried to go a bit cheaper with non-Yamaha bearings, but I noticed that the NTN bearings had one less ball to carry the load. I checked with Pop who said this was NOT kosher -- so I returned the NTN and got the right ones from Yamaha -- from $40 to $100 in one easy step...
Since the big trip will take up most of my summer, I have decided to hold off licenceing the Ducati this summer, and endeavor to make the "Ultimate SS". I think I was pretty close as is, but what would set it apart is a single-sided swingarm. I think I found one of the last OEM MH900E swingarms on the market from a guy in England. We settled on a reasonable price, and unreasonable shipping (although it got here pretty quick), and I've started to fit the thing to the bike. It will mean stripping the frame right down again, as some maching, grinding, and welding will need to take place. However, seeing that there is some considerable value in the OEM ducati pieces I previously had on the bike, I will be able to recoup most of the costs.
It has been done before... Reed Herman from MN mounted one of the swingarms he had onto a customer's 900SS frame... as with most things Ducati (at least with aircooled engines), the swingarm is a direct bolt-on. That being said,
I have to modify the frame, cutting off the lower half of the frame downtubes, as they foul on the outboard edges of the swingarm. So that means I will have to re-position the rearsets, so the 916 rearsets I got will no longer work -- considering I have custom-made probably 5 different sets of rearset plates, this is easy, and made simpler even with the fact that the brake and shift levers do not pivot on the plate. I used the 916 rearsets as a guide, grinded off an old rearset tab from another frame, and welded it "up" from one of the tabs which could stay on the frame. Then I cut off the bottom part of the frame to suit. It actually looks a bit like how the hypermotard and sport classic frames are designed. I have a pair of wooden templates made which locate the pegs from their new origin, to where they end up with the OEM 916 rearsets. Not very well explained... but if you've ever done this before, you know exactly what I'm talking about.



