Sunday, November 24, 2013
A few more mods...
Plan on installing this Koso race dash over the break/before round 1. It is good enough for KTM to use on their moto3 bikes, so it should be good enough for me!
It combines a bunch of features I am looking for into 1 gauge... while the max rpm is a bit high (16,000 rpm!), it does have a nice large shift light that you can see on the upper RHS. Just below it is a digital temperature gauge, which uses the same hardware I already have with my Koso water temp gauge. It runs off of a separate 9volt battery, so that will make installation a bit simpler. The only work will be finding the correct tach lead, but the manual should have the correct information on that. This works out OK, as the now-redundant water temp gauge from the racebike will be used on the cx500 project I am also working on. It will be awhile before I get my hands on this, but I have the whole winter to monkey with it! When I get the new engine on the dyno, I will have some updated information on the peak hp RPM, and set the shift light accordingly.
Monday, November 11, 2013
More Electrickery
While I wait for the stock loom to reach me before posting it off to Track Electronics (see below), I set about working on the lightweight stator/rotor assembly as built by BRG racing. I actually had it on the bike in the new engine, but as I was working through the earlier non-starting issues, I removed it, thinking the non-stock rotor and stator could be the root of the problem. Now that I have the new engine running as it should, I can go back to re-installing this light rotor to test next year.
First step was finding a second alternator cover, so I could switch between the two if needed. Once sourced, I went about installing the stator.
This is from a 2006-07 CBR1000rr. BRG machined an alloy spacer ring to set the smaller stator out from the alternator cover to get the right "depth". I also spliced in the 3 EX650 wires and connector into the CBR loom. Three wires into 3 wires... pretty simple.
The other component is the CBR rotor. The weight differential is quite significant -- a few pounds between the stock ex rotor and the cbr one. I need to make a tool to hold onto the rotor while it is being tightened, but some time in the garage with the torch and an old wrench should do the trick. In order to line everything up, there is another aluminum spacer, and the stock starter bearings all work. I just need to remove the stock rotor from the ex engine and swap over these parts. I've ordered a proper puller from TransCanada Motorsports (see the link on the right), as I anticipate needing this tool, rather than borrowing one off of Scotty all the time!
If it works as it should, this will only add to the lightness of the bottom end of the race engine. All things considered, I am not gonna get a HUGE power gain from this engine. While it has been rebuilt and basically blueprinted, aside from some intake work, very little has been done... no bored throttle bodies, no forced air, no displacement bump, and just a slight increase in compression using stock pistons. However, it should run a treat with the crankshaft work, and this lighter rotor. However, that being said, I am basically beta-testing this part. I believe there is one other racer running this setup in California. It should also be noted that this setup is far lighter than the machined stock rotor options offered... machining the stock rotor only saves just under 1 pound. I might weigh the two to compare!
First step was finding a second alternator cover, so I could switch between the two if needed. Once sourced, I went about installing the stator.
The other component is the CBR rotor. The weight differential is quite significant -- a few pounds between the stock ex rotor and the cbr one. I need to make a tool to hold onto the rotor while it is being tightened, but some time in the garage with the torch and an old wrench should do the trick. In order to line everything up, there is another aluminum spacer, and the stock starter bearings all work. I just need to remove the stock rotor from the ex engine and swap over these parts. I've ordered a proper puller from TransCanada Motorsports (see the link on the right), as I anticipate needing this tool, rather than borrowing one off of Scotty all the time!
If it works as it should, this will only add to the lightness of the bottom end of the race engine. All things considered, I am not gonna get a HUGE power gain from this engine. While it has been rebuilt and basically blueprinted, aside from some intake work, very little has been done... no bored throttle bodies, no forced air, no displacement bump, and just a slight increase in compression using stock pistons. However, it should run a treat with the crankshaft work, and this lighter rotor. However, that being said, I am basically beta-testing this part. I believe there is one other racer running this setup in California. It should also be noted that this setup is far lighter than the machined stock rotor options offered... machining the stock rotor only saves just under 1 pound. I might weigh the two to compare!
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