Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Rule Britannia
After some trying, I couldn't get the AIM tach to read properly, nor could I figure out the lap time function... so I sold it to a cart racer. I think the wasted spark of the engine had the tach fooled. Regardless, with the sale of the mychron I had some coin for some other guages -- simpler, I hope.
This is a scitsu tach from the UK. Bought used off of eBay -- internal battery was shot, so I went to Prairie Battery and they are making me up a new one, to be housed externally -- the original was inside the bezel. The water temp guage is by KOSO -- a nice, simple unit that works perfectly.
Further on the electrical front, I got a custom mini battery from the 13x forums. Less than half the weight of the original, and even works better, apparently. Starts up the mono easy. Put in an aluminum heat sheild over the header to help protect it.
Hopefully the battery for the tach gets done in short order and I can test out the tach. Am also removing the thermostat from the cooling system, as per ATV racing mods.
Serviced the carb and found that a diaphram was stuck -- caused some serious popping on decelleration. The internet is a wonderful place for information! Also cleaned up the jets, and installed a 152.5 main, vs the 140 that I started with. Its getting harder and harder to find jets....
This is a scitsu tach from the UK. Bought used off of eBay -- internal battery was shot, so I went to Prairie Battery and they are making me up a new one, to be housed externally -- the original was inside the bezel. The water temp guage is by KOSO -- a nice, simple unit that works perfectly.
Further on the electrical front, I got a custom mini battery from the 13x forums. Less than half the weight of the original, and even works better, apparently. Starts up the mono easy. Put in an aluminum heat sheild over the header to help protect it.
Hopefully the battery for the tach gets done in short order and I can test out the tach. Am also removing the thermostat from the cooling system, as per ATV racing mods.
Serviced the carb and found that a diaphram was stuck -- caused some serious popping on decelleration. The internet is a wonderful place for information! Also cleaned up the jets, and installed a 152.5 main, vs the 140 that I started with. Its getting harder and harder to find jets....
Sunday, April 11, 2010
rad!
Wow, that's a weak title. Anyway, courtesy of eBay, and dear ol' mom and dad, the following came on the bus today:
Almost twice as thick a core as the OEM rad (which had developed a pinhole leak). Should hold an extra 30% more coolant that the stock one. This one actually seems to fit better than the original!
And what seems like a fairly regular occurence, I sliced open my finger. Looks far worse than it is. I just can't seem to get used to using those "Mechanix" gloves that the Nascar boys do. Can't feel anything with them on.
Nothing new on the outside, but this fork had a bit of a leak since new. I replaced the seal, along with adding 20W oil to each fork. It seems to have really stiffened up the front -- the oil adding a bit of hydraulic assist to the spring. Will have to re-measure front sag when I can.
Almost twice as thick a core as the OEM rad (which had developed a pinhole leak). Should hold an extra 30% more coolant that the stock one. This one actually seems to fit better than the original!
And what seems like a fairly regular occurence, I sliced open my finger. Looks far worse than it is. I just can't seem to get used to using those "Mechanix" gloves that the Nascar boys do. Can't feel anything with them on.
Nothing new on the outside, but this fork had a bit of a leak since new. I replaced the seal, along with adding 20W oil to each fork. It seems to have really stiffened up the front -- the oil adding a bit of hydraulic assist to the spring. Will have to re-measure front sag when I can.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)