Hard Core Logo!

(Obsure CanFilm Reference)

video of the bike running!

stickers

Got some decals in the mail -- the #91 (Haslam copy) that came in from the UK.

I made this on myself -- stands for "Beans' Racing Machines" -- inside/family joke.

Note the devil/halo juxtaposition.

The front -- green is light enough to contrast the black numbers for visibility.

The dash -- tach is getting a read, just need to set it right.  Too cold today (and for the next week or so) to run the bike anyway.  Just as well, the in-line fuel shut off valve is pooched.  Need to come up with another fix...

In other news, am planning a trip down south to Mid-America Motorplex with Wilson and Doug in June.  Should be a blast!

Bodywork (re) Painted

Here are some pics:

I also took the time to do the first suspension measurements -- rear sag with the new shock.

I set up a handy-dandy measuring device, using one of the rear trailer stands, a piece of square tubing, and some welding rod.

I measured and marked some increments in inches and centemeters on the tubing, and then sat on the bike, seeing how far "down" the welding rod travelled from its starting point "x".

While in a racing tuck, I reached behind, and marked the extent of the downward travel (sag) of the welding rod "y", and then measured it.  1.5" -- which is right in the ballpark for rear sag measurement on a bike, in a street application.  Considering the bumpiness of gimli, I might just leave it there for now.  The ideal "race" setting is 1 to 1.25", so I can always increase the preload or get a stiffer rear spring if necessary.

It's Alive

Some unseasonably warm weather allowed me to fire up the mono for the first time since the top end refresh/rebuild.  Amazingly enough, it started up easily, and settled into a nice idle once the choke was removed.  It seems that the off-idle throttle response is better than ever, perhaps due to the new cam profile.  Regardless, this is just the first startup, and will need several more to properly seat the rings and make sure everything runs properly.  The good news is, the engine is oil-tight.  The not-so-good news is the rad has seemed to have developed a pinhole leak.  So, I'm keeping my eye on eBay for a replacement.  It will suit my needs for now on static running at idle.  As for the sound, the bike roars!  A real angry, but low, bark.  I can only imagine how it will sound at full tilt!

With the tank off being painted, I had to figure a way to feed some fuel to the carbs.  I cleaned out an old master cylinder resevoir, bolted it to the rear subframe, and ran some fuel hose to the float bowl -- hey presto, about 3-5 minutes of run time!

This is the rear seat in the uppermost position -- I think I might try it at its lower setting first.  Seat foam was bought in bulk and the glued on with some 3M spray.

This is where the students and I signed our names to the tail section prior to the clearcoat.  I've smudged out their names for their privacy.

Key Lime paint on front fender.  I like it, and it makes a nice contrast with the blue of the front wheel.

As promised, Cycleboyz were able to silver-solder a small barbed "stump" into the fitting that bolts to the engine.  While I was there to pick it up, I also bought a nice hose clamp finisher, some 3/8 Gates oil hose, and 3 litres of Motul petroleum based oil. 

Oil fitting picured in previous post is in the spares kit -- will see if this setup is oil-tight.

Hand made is cool and all, but when it comes to a track bike, a "one-off", custom, or bespoke part doesn't do you any good when said part fails.  The proddie bike guys and gals just buy 2 of things that are likely to need replacement -- 2 brake levers, 2 clutch levers, 2, etc....  In my case, there were two custom-made pieces (of what may become many) that I thought I should have spares for (and whose initial fabrication/design/concept I was pretty sure I could improve upon.

One was the splined shift shaft -- at first I put two ends on it, to reverse the shifting if needed or possible.  In the end, traditional street style shifting was the only option.  So version 2.0 would only need one arm facing down.  Note relieved area for chain run.

This is the second version.  It still needs to be painted (note the bit of rust on the inside of the tube.  I'm happy with the design as it makes for a very sturdy, direct, and positive-feeling shift.  It will also work with a 16T sprocket, but the 15 I have on leaves a bit more clearance.

This is the outlet for the oil feed.  It works quite well, despite looking a bit rough.  It is a metric tube size, so the compression fitting had to be custom-ordered, and you can see where the steel feed tube has a few marr marks from being bent (I heated it and filled it with sand to minimize a kink forming, however).  I did buy a second DRZ400 feed line, and Cycleboys is going to silver solder a simple "stump" on the mount that has a barb on it for the appropriate hose.  The 90 degree bend will be in the hose itself, but I hope it is not too sharp to starve oil flow.  If version 2 works as well, I'll use it. 

Version 1 of both parts will go in the spares kit, just in case.  Paint work for the Key Lime Kawi is coming albeit slowly...