another vid

Rule Britannia

After some trying, I couldn't get the AIM tach to read properly, nor could I figure out the lap time function... so I sold it to a cart racer.  I think the wasted spark of the engine had the tach fooled.  Regardless, with the sale of the mychron I had some coin for some other guages -- simpler, I hope.

This is a scitsu tach from the UK.  Bought used off of eBay -- internal battery was shot, so I went to Prairie Battery and they are making me up a new one, to be housed externally -- the original was inside the bezel.  The water temp guage is by KOSO -- a nice, simple unit that works perfectly.

Further on the electrical front, I got a custom mini battery from the 13x forums.  Less than half the weight of the original, and even works better, apparently.  Starts up the mono easy.  Put in an aluminum heat sheild over the header to help protect it.

Hopefully the battery for the tach gets done in short order and I can test out the tach.  Am also removing the thermostat from the cooling system, as per ATV racing mods. 



Serviced the carb and found that a diaphram was stuck -- caused some serious popping on decelleration.  The internet is a wonderful place for information!  Also cleaned up the jets, and installed a 152.5 main, vs the 140 that I started with.  Its getting harder and harder to find jets....

rad!

Wow, that's a weak title.  Anyway, courtesy of eBay, and dear ol' mom and dad, the following came on the bus today:

Almost twice as thick a core as the OEM rad (which had developed a pinhole leak).  Should hold an extra 30% more coolant that the stock one.  This one actually seems to fit better than the original!

And what seems like a fairly regular occurence, I sliced open my finger.  Looks far worse than it is.  I just can't seem to get used to using those "Mechanix" gloves that the Nascar boys do.  Can't feel anything with them on.

Nothing new on the outside, but this fork had a bit of a leak since new.  I replaced the seal, along with adding 20W oil to each fork.  It seems to have really stiffened up the front -- the oil adding a bit of hydraulic assist to the spring.  Will have to re-measure front sag when I can.

Hard Core Logo!

(Obsure CanFilm Reference)

video of the bike running!

stickers

Got some decals in the mail -- the #91 (Haslam copy) that came in from the UK.

I made this on myself -- stands for "Beans' Racing Machines" -- inside/family joke.

Note the devil/halo juxtaposition.

The front -- green is light enough to contrast the black numbers for visibility.

The dash -- tach is getting a read, just need to set it right.  Too cold today (and for the next week or so) to run the bike anyway.  Just as well, the in-line fuel shut off valve is pooched.  Need to come up with another fix...

In other news, am planning a trip down south to Mid-America Motorplex with Wilson and Doug in June.  Should be a blast!

Bodywork (re) Painted

Here are some pics:

I also took the time to do the first suspension measurements -- rear sag with the new shock.

I set up a handy-dandy measuring device, using one of the rear trailer stands, a piece of square tubing, and some welding rod.

I measured and marked some increments in inches and centemeters on the tubing, and then sat on the bike, seeing how far "down" the welding rod travelled from its starting point "x".

While in a racing tuck, I reached behind, and marked the extent of the downward travel (sag) of the welding rod "y", and then measured it.  1.5" -- which is right in the ballpark for rear sag measurement on a bike, in a street application.  Considering the bumpiness of gimli, I might just leave it there for now.  The ideal "race" setting is 1 to 1.25", so I can always increase the preload or get a stiffer rear spring if necessary.